Paris Fashion Week Opens With New Creative Era
British-US fashion editor Anna Wintour arrives at Giorgio Armani's collection show during Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2026 on September 28, 2025, in Milan. ©Stefano RELLANDINI / AFP

Paris Fashion Week kicks off Monday amid sweeping changes at the top of the luxury fashion world. With a dozen major houses debuting new creative directors, the event promises to mark the start of a new chapter for the industry.

Shows by Saint Laurent and Weinsanto will kick off a hotly anticipated Paris Fashion Week on Monday, with a dozen brands set to showcase new creative directors following a major industry shake-up.

The Spring-Summer 2026 season will highlight the recent renewal of top leadership within global luxury brands. The first Chanel show by Matthieu Blazy is expected to be the most anticipated moment.

VIPs and fashion insiders eager to see Blazy’s debut collection will have to wait until October 6, the penultimate day of the week, to witness the 41-year-old Franco-Belgian designer's vision.

Monday’s lineup will feature collections from Saint Laurent, France's Weinsanto, and newcomer Belgian designer Julie Kegels, with the opening day traditionally drawing celebrities and VIPs.

The luxury fashion sector, facing slower spending among high-end consumers, is looking to these leadership changes to reinvigorate brands and boost global sales.

"We're opening a new chapter, not so much for Fashion Week itself, but for what fashion will be over the next 10 years," said Pierre Groppo, fashion editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair France.

Blazy was recruited from Kering-owned Bottega Veneta to take over at Chanel, tasked with moving the brand forward after Karl Lagerfeld’s iconic reign. Lagerfeld shaped Chanel’s identity until his death in 2019, after which Virginie Viard continued his legacy.

Blazy, who made his mark at Maison Margiela, has kept his plans for Chanel tightly under wraps since his appointment in December.

New Era For Luxury Fashion

Another key moment will be Jonathan Anderson’s first women's collection for LVMH-owned Dior on October 1, following his well-received debut men's line in June.

Balenciaga will also be in the spotlight as Pierpaolo Piccioli takes the reins from Demna, who has moved on to Gucci, where he unveiled his first collection during Milan Fashion Week with a focus on red-carpet glamour.

Duran Lantink will debut as Jean Paul Gaultier’s first permanent artistic director since the founder’s retirement in 2020.

According to Claire Thomson-Jonville, editorial director of Vogue France, "The massive arrival of new creative directors is the sign of a new era: they bring a more global, inclusive, and responsible vision, while reinventing the heritage of the houses."

Other debuts include Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, and Mark Thomas at Carven.

No Pause Between Shows

Several designers will be presenting only their second collections, considered pivotal by industry insiders. Among them are Sarah Burton for Givenchy, Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela, and Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford.

Alongside these names, Paris Fashion Week will feature presentations from Louis Vuitton and Hermès, while long-absent brands like Celine and Thom Browne return, promising a packed schedule "without downtime," said Elvire von Bardeleben of Le Monde.

Victoria Beckham will showcase her latest line on October 3, just before a new three-part Netflix documentary about her premieres.

The event takes place amid turbulence for the luxury sector, with declining demand in China, U.S. tariffs on exports, and uncertainty surrounding the global economy.

By Marine DO-VALE and Adam PLOWRIGHT / AFP

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