1. Home
2. Culture
3. Eternal Jane B, Everlasting Birkin: The Story of an Icon at Auction

The very first Birkin bag, designed for Jane Birkin in 1984 by Hermès, will be the centerpiece of a Paris auction on July 10 hosted by Sotheby’s. This rare prototype, a symbol of luxury, stands out with its unique details and will be featured in the Fashion Icons sale. Jane Birkin, a timeless fashion icon and muse, inspired this legendary bag.

Created in 1984 by Hermès specifically for Jane Birkin, the very first Birkin bag will go up for auction in Paris on July 10 at Sotheby’s. This one-of-a-kind piece, crafted from black leather and engraved with the initials J.B., includes original features like a fixed shoulder strap, closed metal rings and even a built-in nail file. Born from a chance meeting between Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas on a Paris-to-London flight, the bag has since become a symbol of luxury. Having been exhibited in New York and Paris, it will be the star lot of the Fashion Icons sale, alongside creations by Dior, Galliano, Mugler and McQueen.

The story of the famous Hermès Birkin bag begins in 1984. It all started with a spontaneous encounter and a chance conversation aboard a Paris-London flight. Jane Birkin happened to be seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, then president of Hermès.

At the time, the young mother of Charlotte Gainsbourg carried a variety of belongings in her typical wicker basket or a tote bag. During the flight, her bag spilled open, scattering its contents on the airplane floor. Frustrated by her inability to find a bag that was both spacious and stylish—especially suited for young mothers—Jane Birkin voiced her wish for a practical yet elegant and distinguished bag. Jean-Louis Dumas then offered to create her dream bag. Birkin sketched the initial design on an airsickness bag, imagining a bag four times the size of the Kelly bag, but still smaller than a suitcase.

Dumas didn’t hesitate. A few years later, the Hermès Birkin bag was born. Grateful, Jane Birkin carried it regularly for years. She found the cult following around the bag and her image amusing. For her, practicality was the primary goal; she personalized her bag by stuffing it, adding pearls and stickers, reflecting her elegant yet bohemian personality—both gentle and assertive.

The Birkin bag, both classy and practical, is defined by its design: two handles, a tote shape, a flap with a lock and key clochette. Each bag is handmade by a single artisan in Hermès’ workshops in France, with crafting taking between 15 and 48 hours. This artisanal approach, combined with impeccable saddle stitching, premium materials, luxurious leather, master craftsmanship and French production, sets Hermès apart. Moreover, the Birkin bag is one of the rare fashion items that can appreciate in value after purchase, making it a sought-after investment for collectors.

Eternal Jane B.

A symbol of effortless cool and boldness, Jane Birkin was the authentic English woman who won the heart and soul of France, becoming the embodiment of “French girl chic.” The Birkin bag reflects the perfect union of a quintessential French luxury brand and an artist. But to the French, and to Jane herself, it was something more. Once, while walking down the street, Jane was greeted warmly by fans who asked where she bought her Birkin. She smiled and replied that she was Birkin, that the bag was an extension of herself. Indeed, it embodied her effortless style, her anti-conformist, simple yet sophisticated image—free and uninhibited.

Jane Birkin elevated everyday items into symbols of high fashion—the white T-shirt, flared jeans, knit sweaters or oversized men’s shirts often borrowed from Serge Gainsbourg. She was ahead of her time in blurring gender lines. Even the “naked dress,” now banned from Cannes red carpets, was her trademark, alongside Serge Gainsbourg. The legendary duo was known for their rebellious flair, raw love and powerful artistic presence, as Marguerite Duras described it—a constant provocation in the midst of vulnerability and strength, driven by sheer artistic nerve.