Milan Fashion Week set the tone for next winter with a refined aesthetic, where quiet luxury met timeless sophistication. From fifty shades of grey to belted silhouettes and leather trench coats, the runway showcased a seamless blend of classic tailoring and bold statements.
Milan Fashion Week might be over, but the trends to stay elegant and stylish next winter have been revealed. The general mood of the week was quiet luxury, in line with the last few seasons, where quality materials were paired with everyday essentials.
Grey
All the studios clearly had the grey suits from the 1980 film American Gigolo plastered all over their mood boards this season. And it was, in fact, Giorgio Armani, who designed the famous suits worn by Richard Gere in the film, who showed a perfect mastery of the colour as the house closed Milan Fashion Week with its show on Sunday.
The "greige" color invented by Giorgio Armani that skilfully combines grey and beige was spotted everywhere and in expensive materials: silk jacquard, cashmere, and organza. The brand showed off flowing jacket and trouser sets, trouser jumpsuits, and complex embroidery on floaty dresses.
Grey also played a central role in the collection of Antonio Marras, in Prince of Wales suits, tartan, and tennis stripes, always worn in a tailored style in both men’s and women’s fashion. The same went for Ferragamo, who used grey in large double-buttoned coats, worn over long silk dresses.
Just like its men's suits—some contemporary, some in seventies style—Gucci followed the same pattern for classic women's ensembles, with small jackets and knee-length skirts complemented by a pretty integral tunic emblazoned with the double GG.
Max Mara's collection highlighted flecked grey cardigans and dresses made from thick wool, while MM6 Maison Margiela showed off a greenish-grey hue in Matrix-style trench coats.
Fasten Your Seatbelt
Most looks at Max Mara’s show involved belts, from coats and cardigans to a long woollen dress and both mini and long skirts. Emporio Armani’s looks also featured Japanese Obi belts or belts made from velour with geometric buckles. At Gucci, the fashion house’s symbolic horsebit was featured in a metallic belt.
In Prada’s collection, thin belts created unexpected volume on oversized coats. Meanwhile, for Tod’s and Ferragamo’s collections, belts had a more functional role, with Tod’s belts allowing for accessories and discreet pockets, while Ferragamo’s featured oversized bags.
Moschino’s cheeky universe distorted the usual use of belts, using them to create innovative structures.
Leather Trench Coats
Roberto Cavalli made a strong impression with an all-black, rigid leather belted trench coat, while Tod’s collection showed off trench coats made of supple, wrap-around leather in bright red, caramel, and chocolate.
Rome-based fashion house Fendi featured a trench coat made of cognac leather in a retro style with a shirt collar, while Gucci had several varieties—without belts, stripped-down, and with animal prints, made of beige aged leather.
Dolce & Gabbana presented a big leather coat worn over a silk nightdress and accompanied by mustard yellow biker boots, part of the "Cool Girls" collection by the Sicilian duo.
Matelassé
The matelassé style was also very visible on the podiums in Milan on coats, jackets, and sometimes skirts.
Fendi, which celebrates its 100th anniversary with an acclaimed collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of the founders, featured a matelassé ensemble comprised of a flared skirt and a small, hyper-detailed golden ochre blouse that combined style and comfort.
Emporio Armani showed off the trend in short matelassé jackets with herringbone patterns, brightened up with velour details. Max Mara produced a floor-length belted coat in matelassé style, while the back of Dolce & Gabbana’s large coats featured matelassé leopard motifs that kept in line with the season’s theme: streetwear chic.
And Moschino took the matelassé brief literally with a humorous interpretation, featuring models wearing large padded quilts as coats and pillows instead of hats.
With AFP
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