French designer Julien Fournie marks his 50th birthday with a circus-inspired show, celebrating craftsmanship and independence at Paris's Haute Couture Week.
French designer Julien Fournie will celebrate his 50th birthday on Tuesday during Paris's Haute Couture Week, with a circus-themed show highlighting his enduring creativity.
In a fashion industry subdued by the loss of icons like Thierry Mugler and Karl Lagerfeld, Fournie remains steadfast in his belief in fashion as a spectacle. The event, titled First Circus, will take place at the Mogador Theater in central Paris, hosting 1,600 guests, including surprise attendees.
This ambitious production represents a significant investment for an independent label that carefully manages its resources. "I’m not one of those so-called cursed designers who lack ideas. On the contrary, I have around 30 collections sketched out," Fournie shared from his studio in Paris's 10th arrondissement. "It’s more the lack of funds that prevents me from creating more," he added.
Tuesday's show will debut approximately 30 creations, including menswear for the first time. Last year, Fournie captivated audiences at the Mogador Theater with a tribute to the "vamp" woman, marking the 15th anniversary of his fashion house.
Elsewhere during Haute Couture Week, all eyes will turn to Dior’s show at the Rodin Museum, which could be the final collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Speculation suggests her eight-year tenure as creative director of women’s collections may conclude, with British designer Jonathan Anderson, currently at Loewe, rumored to replace her.
Fournie embraces haute couture as a craft, prioritizing connections with clients and fans over the celebrity-driven, influencer-heavy direction of modern fashion. "Fashion doesn’t interest me. I don’t want to know what’s happening elsewhere. I don’t follow trends," he emphasized. "We create unique collections for unique clients, which is the essence of haute couture: a one-of-a-kind garment for a one-of-a-kind moment."
Many of Fournie's designs are sold before being showcased publicly. Despite catering to a typically discreet clientele—royalty and wealthy individuals from the Middle East, Asia, Europe, and the United States—Fournie continues to invest in grand, theatrical shows. His independence sustains a small team of 17 employees during the show season, avoiding the relentless pressures of mass-market brands like LVMH and Kering.
Other notable shows this week include Chanel’s Haute Couture collection, prepared by in-house designers rather than new creative director Matthieu Blazy. Fendi and Maison Margiela will likely be absent after the departures of Kim Jones and John Galliano. Meanwhile, Switzerland’s Kevin Germanier will unveil his first Haute Couture collection on Thursday, known for his vibrant upcycled creations. Valentino will also showcase its first Haute Couture collection under new artistic director Alessandro Michele.
With AFP
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