Artists Abandon Abidjan for Ivory Coast’s Beachside Haven
A painter uses a brush to paint at the 'Maison des Artistes' (artist's house) in Grand-Bassam on November 22, 2024. ©Issouf Sanogo / AFP

Grand-Bassam, a UNESCO-listed coastal town in Ivory Coast, has become a haven for artists escaping Abidjan’s chaos. Its colonial charm, vibrant history, and inspiring environment have transformed it into a burgeoning artistic hub, despite ongoing challenges.

Far from the hustle and chaos of Ivory Coast’s largest city, the tropical climate, sea air, and rich history of Grand-Bassam have made this sleepy, UNESCO-listed town a magnet for artists seeking inspiration and tranquility.

Ibrahim Ketoure, an artist in his 30s, has opened his studio and gallery to fellow creatives, many of whom, like him, grew tired of the vast economic hub of Abidjan, just 30 kilometers (19 miles) away. "Abidjan is an urban conglomeration with traffic jams everywhere, while in Grand-Bassam, life is good," he explained to AFP. "There’s the beach, the lagoon—it’s quite relaxing and perfect for finding an artistic frame of mind."

Nestled among colonial-style buildings surrounded by palm trees, Ketoure’s studio has blossomed into a haven of creativity over the past two years. Grand-Bassam’s old quarter, with its crumbling colonial facades and vegetation creeping through windows, was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012.

The town’s history as a cultural hub dates back to French colonial rule, when it served as Ivory Coast’s capital. Its mix of settlers fostered a vibrant arts scene, enriched by Burkinabe and Malian artisans who introduced traditional textiles like bazin and indigo fabrics, as well as blacksmiths and bronze workers from the region.

Artists such as Serge Nean, who crafts jewelry from seashells washed ashore, and sculptor Paul Akossi, known for his masks and colorful statues, have found Grand-Bassam inspiring. Cape Verdean Jean-Philippe Goncalves, a former industrial worker, now sketches and landscapes from his terrace. "When I’m not in my studio, I visit fellow artists to draw inspiration from their work," Akossi shared.

According to historian and tour guide Akueson Nandouhard, "Hundreds of artists have left Abidjan for Grand-Bassam," turning it into an artistic capital. Despite its charm, the town faces challenges. A lack of major galleries like those in Abidjan and limited buyers have forced many artists to self-fund their work. Economic difficulties have persisted since the 2011 post-election crisis and a 2016 jihadist attack on its beach, which left 19 dead.

Still, Grand-Bassam remains a beacon of creativity, hosting several artisan villages and attracting visitors with initiatives like a forthcoming contemporary art museum, announced by Culture Minister Francoise Remarck. French rapper Ichon and other international artists have joined projects led by Ivorian designer Jean-Servais Somian, further enriching its creative landscape.

While challenges remain, the town’s beauty, rich history, and artistic spirit ensure that Grand-Bassam continues to inspire generations of artists and visitors alike.

With AFP

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